Writer Iso Neville, contributing fashion writer & second-hand stylist
All photos courtesy of L.Saha
Laboni Saha’s eponymous brand L.Saha unveiled their Autumn/Winter 2024 collection at the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week. Staying true to its sustainable values, the brand transformed the University of Westminster’s unassuming Fyvie Hall into a runway aligned with its grand but minimalist aesthetic - a fitting location for designer Laboni Saha’s pioneering role in the world of luxury sustainable fashion.
Creative Director Laboni Saha's inspiration for collection Obsidian Sky started from a handwritten poem evoking nature, human emotions and cosmic forces and her collection came to life as a physical expression of this way of seeing the world.
Laboni explains:
“ During my night time walks in nature, I have found the vastness, beauty and calm of the night sky to be extremely healing. The moon and its halo that taints the darkness in a multitude of shades ranging from Bordeaux to turquoise has often left me in wonder, awe and with a meditative feeling that cannot be compared to anything I have experienced before. “
OBSIDIAN SKY
by Laboni Saha
Goodnight beautiful world
It’s dark outside my window
But your’s might be bright
My Birds and Bees are in slumber
Your’s are perhaps in flight?
I lie awaken by the beauty of the night
You maybe awaken by fear...
Of bombs, bullets, firing guns
Or air drenched in spears
Created as one but now divided,
With futile-jagged-fences
Barring my Air and Oceans
Barring your Seas and Sky
Until one day, when the Sky turns Obsidian
When her healing pours like rain;
Somewhere may she cure doubts and fears
Somewhere destruction and pain.
Goodnight beautiful world
As I mourn your Calamities
Will you see my Calm and keep faith?
Because, like two branches of the same tree-
We are all related.
If Mother Earth a giant womb
Mankind an embryo. We are the same cell - divided.
An end of you will be an end of me - because
I am you. You are I.
Flowing silks and the brand’s signature hand-woven rope embellishments were at the forefront of the new AW24 collection. Each of the nine looks streamed past in a dramatic palette of reds, golds and black. A galaxy print shift dress, reminiscent of the signature aesthetic of the designer and the only patterned print that was included tied into the rest of the collection through a plunging v which tapered sulterly down the model’s back. The open back detail appeared throughout the collection, oozing with class and a subtle sexiness which was a nice surprise and contrast to the more modest silhouette on the front of the pieces.
As can be expected, the final look drew the most attention from the fashion crowd. In contrast to the rest of the collection, this standout ensemble was all about tailoring featuring a double-breasted silk blazer, a seamless close to the collection with soft finishings in lieu of the traditional structured blazer we know. Layered over a semi-sheer gold dress that elegantly touched the runway as it swept past, the champagne blazer was constructed without lapels, true to L Saha’s ‘less is more’ aesthetic.
As a brand that prides itself on sustainability - fashion designer and founder Laboni Saha regularly holds talks at climate summits including COP and this AW24 collection proves that luxury and sustainability are the best companions. A masterclass in understated beauty, every cut and flourish was laid bare against the minimalist backdrop of Fyvie Hall, proving just how perfect L.Saha’s tight-knit team brought a beautiful and sustainable collection to life.
L.Saha is a beautifully handcrafted unique luxury brand and pieces range from £300 to £5000. The latest AW23 collection is available to shop via the website.
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