Writer Iso Neville, contributing fashion writer & second-hand stylist
All photos by photographer Jason Lloyd Evans
Photo Jason Lloyd Evans
Chinese Designer Demon Zhang took us to embellishment heaven at the Mithridate A/W24 show on Thursday 16th February 2024. Accompanied by a harpist, the models moved through the stunning Guildhall Art Gallery crypt adorned with crystals, sculptural flowers and chains.
From leather to tweed and through metallics and corsetry, the elaborate collection moved between moods with a cohesive theme of texture and volume. Everything, from the block heel boots to the models’ hair was embellished, and the gold decadent accessories complemented the dark, warm jewel tones of the fabrics. Luxury and opulence in lieu of softness, emanated from every piece and boldness and maximalism gave each look a true sense of armour, integral to the brand's philosophy.
Photo Jason Lloyd Evans
Standout pieces included a voluminous structural gold dress, seemingly made out of the metal itself, which reflected the lights and colours from the crypt’s stained glass windows. A billowing purple metallic puffer dress that brushed the FROW’s feet as it swept past also made a huge impact and a black tulle ballgown with sculptural flowers blooming from the bodice served both toughness and femininity. A velvet black corset dripping with asymmetrical lengths of chain was a standout piece which Demon Zhang, the designer, chose to accompany her down the runway at the end of the fabulous show.
Photos Jason Lloyd Evans
Zhang designs without gender, and while many of this collection’s pieces had Mithridate’s usual feminine forms, structured tailoring and oversized knits provided a touch of masculinity to appeal to a broad range of tastes and styles. Corsetry took a starring role throughout the collection with boning that extended beyond its traditional position with chains and crystals draped beyond the hems of the corsetry. The movement these details created served as the perfect reminder for the value of runway shows. Seeing ready to wear pieces in a boutique is one thing, but seeing each look move and brought to life by the models is something quite different. After all, clothes are designed to be worn - and seeing the designs come alive before your eyes is exactly what fashions stands for - to bring drama, to inspire, and to spark your imagination through beautiful craftsmanship.
Mithridate is an affordable luxury brand for all genders ranging from £90 in the accessories range to £100 - £2950 in the clothing range.
The SS24 collection is available to shop now on the Mithridate website and the AW24 will be released for sale soon. The brand can also be found for purchase in eight independent retail stores across luxury destinations in China.
View Full Runway Gallery here
Photo Jason Lloyd Evans
Collection | Runway | Creatives credits
Creative Director: Demon Zhang @guaishoudemon
Styling & Casting: @gary_david_moore
Production: @sophiemprod
Runway Photographer: @jasonlloydevans
Backstage & Guest Photographer: @jasonlloydevans
Dave Benett / Getty: @davebenett
Harpist: Emily Wilson
Floral: @flurlondon
Lighting: @dclx_lighting
Sound: @dobsonsound
Hair: @johannacreebrownhair @trevorsorbie using @lorealpro @garyrepresents
Makeup: @citizenjanes using @theordinary @garyrepresents
Nails: @kimgmacias @garyrepresents
Shoes: @rokeratelier
Fragrance: @penhaligons_london
PR: @cp_concept
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