On the 18th February 2023, UOS - University of Salford, brought together thirteen MA graduate fashion designers to London Fashion Week. Each designer presented their debut AW23 collection on the catwalk at Phonica Records in Soho. There was such a wide range of talent on display with some common themes amongst the designers. Lace, sheer fabrics, tulle, metallics, neon and stiletto boots were some of the trends that came through in the collections.
Each designer had a very individual style and form of expression unique to them whether it was playing with volume, sexy silhouettes with bare skin, feminine streetwear or sculptural shapes. Spanning themes of body modification, the queer rave scene, and the history of the Femme Fatale - The University of Salford showcased a roster of fresh designers expressing cultural and political issues through innovative design. Scroll down to read about each of the thirteen designers that showed their debut collections at London Fashion Week this February. Don't miss the next generation of talent gracing the London Fashion Week stage this season.
1. Patrick Garstang (@garstangg) This collection honours the grotesque beauty of extreme body modification, whilst drawing inspiration pulled from Garstang’s experiences in the Manchester queer rave scene. A sartorial celebration of the human body in both its natural and surgically enhanced forms, this collection evokes shared memories of pure, queer, ecstasy.
2. Beth Rothwell (@bethanyrothwel) With a strong sense of playfulness and femininity, Rothwell draws inspiration from insects and how they use their appearance as their main method of deference, the collection ‘How to scare off predators!’ is an army of women, unafraid.
3. Luke Clarke (@lukeuriah_) Colourful and intoxication, ‘Drunk with Freedom,’ is inspired by the nostalgia of those golden moments when the world begins to open up and freedom sets in.
4. Anna Salad (@salted.greens) This collection has been inspired by an exploration of gaining riches and wealth through others’ naivete, and demonstrates the falsity surrounding online money manipulation.
5. Daria Austin (@daria_austin) ‘Escaped Reality’ evokes the consolidation of music and fantasy within the Berlin Club scene. Austin captures the euphoria and freedom found in these spaces through vibrant prints and colours.
6. Anna Li (@h.w.li_ ) Inspired by contrast - materially, structurally, and conceptually - Li’s collection beautifully merges traditional and futuristic design. Presenting ethereal tulle skirts overlaid with interlocking skeletal details, reminiscent of industrial chains, Li reminds us of the close proximity of both past and future.
7. Debbie Babalola (@fofashionuk) As a tribute to the designer's mother, this collection was created for all strong women who sacrifice their time to nurture their children. Babaolo’s vibrant, elegant gowns are adorned with tulle ruffles on their backs, evoking the image of a strong woman carrying her child.
8. Millie Renshaw (@emrenuk) This collection, ‘Billy Big Rig,’ is the romanticisation of the trucker lifestyle exploring the freedom of the open road. The inspiration for the collection is driven by the ingenuity and individuality of each cabin they call home.
9. Jade Williams (@jadewillsss___) In a stigmatised society, Williams identifies social issues surrounding teenage pregnancy. ‘Rebellious Adolescence’ explores negative misconceptions and challenges through clothing.
10. Rebecca Hearne (@becky__hearne) ‘Forbidden Fruit’ explores the controversial and provocative history of the ‘Femme Fatale.’ A love letter to the “Disastrous Women” whose stories have been reduced by this narrative.
11. Jessica Whittingham (@jessica_whittingham_) ‘Wild Awake’ is about giving ourselves a chance to reawaken, rewild and reconnect with nature in a time of disconnect and social upheaval.
12. Ryan Greenwood (@j.notion) A narrative constructed from The Ancient Tea Horse Road. The Collection, ‘Romance in Reality,’ is an investigation of the interconnected worlds that create the beauty behind photography and the harsh reality that molds the tea porters' lives.
13. Mark Buendia (@navoradesigns) Based on the Phillipine jeepney, “Le Parcours'' is a narrative about enjoying life’s journey to reach success. This collection is a colourful celebration of ascension, with oversized and vibrant hats in pink and green, Buendia’s looks create the impression of excessive elegant birds.
That's the round-up of University of Salford's thirteen MA graduate fashion designers. We can't wait to see what's next for these talented designers and their careers.
Designer Huiwen Li
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